This is the volume one of three that fred beckey wrote for climbing in the cascades. Columbia river to stevens pass by fred beckey, paperback. But within certain mountainclimbing and backpacking circles the name. And many of the rest of us dream of one day standing on its majestic summit. He left behind hundreds of first ascents and legions of. Fred beckey, second from right, on mount mckinley in 1954, a notable climbing year. At first glance, a rainier climbing guide by the legendary fred beckey and a veteran rmi guide sounds like a cant miss. The size and complexity of mount rainier are difficult to comprehend without personal experience on the mountain, and even then it is often grossly underestimated. Fred beckey, who spent more than 70 years scaling north americas greatest peaks, died on monday at the age of 94. At the recent beckey event, fans from young climbers to exgirlfriends. Adventure summited denali and the major cascade peaks, and occasionally still gazes at the top of mount rainier with a gleam in his eye. North cascades mountain guides is among the few companies fortunate enough to be allowed to guide trips to the summit of mount rainier. It is no longer in print, but can be found for purchase here. Cascades climbing routes the guidebooks relied on for more than 25 years northwest climbing legend fred beckey has summited and explored hundreds of cascade peaks handdrawn maps and photos with route overlays, as well as approach information this is the volume one of three that fred beckey wrote for climbing in the cascades.
The book is basically a reprint of the 1949 first edition uses the same title page with a 1953 supplement of 28 pages bound into the covers at the end before the index. Climbing community remembers mountaineering legend fred. A climbing guide the az directory for your rainier summit dreams. Whether youre one of these dreamers or an aspiring pro, you need this book, written by mike gauthier, the parks former lead climbing ranger. Offering the most moderate route up this iconic peak, the beckey route follows the southwest face up a clever series of cracks, chimneys and slabs for four pitches to the summit of liberty bell. A climbing guide features 39 of the mountains best routes, complete with details on the approach, the climb, and the descent, as well as elevation gain, difficulties and hazards, and season. The day after fred beckey died in her arms, i asked megan bond what the mainstream media obituaries werent getting right about the man. Patagonia has recently published fred beckeys 100 favorite north american climbs, a book more appropriate burdening a table than a backpack, but filled with detailed topographical maps and other route beta. Pictures are what i need the most from this type of guide and mount rainier a climbing guide delivers beautiful images of the mountain. Fred beckey, 93, the legendary mountain climber, uses a cane as he. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Suggested reading library of international mountain guides.
Fabled pacific northwest mountaineer fred beckey was partially due to his. The essential guide by fred beckey, alex van steen, 1999 the big fact book about mount rainier. The route descriptions are good, but referencing the routes on the photos is difficult at best. He also penned books about climbing denali and mount rainier. The essential guide by fred beckey, alex van steen, 1999. The title of this book is climbing mount rainier and it was written by fred beckey, alex van steen. Icon to some, legendary climber beckey still obscure to. I heard of willis wall in 1938 when i was 11 years old from my brother bill, who attended the mountaineers climbing course with fred beckey. Liberty bell beckey route north cascade mountain guides. Unlike on mount hood, bills book was to be a climbers guide to the mountain, complete with pictures, routes, and writeups from some veteran climbers, including fred beckey, the renowned alpinist who, along with leo scheiblehner, was the first to climb hoods notorious yocum ridge. It was published by alpenbooks and has a total of 160 pages in the book. No one at the time even thought about climbing the willis wall. Fred beckey is a climbing legend, whose past is the stuff of lore, and whose plans are the stuff of mystery.
Columbia river to stevens pass features expert information on more than 300 climbing and high routes in the cascades, including mount rainier. His cascade alpine guide series is considered classic information from one of the nations godfathers of western climbing. He was never a peakbagger at all, preferring instead challenging first ascents of peaks and routes. Many of the most accomplished us alpinists have learned their skills on mount rainier. Incredible photos, excellent route descriptions and comprehensive information make mount rainier. Seattle hes notched more first ascents than any other american mountaineer, wrote the definitive guidebooks to a major north american mountain range, and at age 93, fred beckey is st. This is the second incarnation 1953 of fred beckeys longrunning series of climbing guide books to the cascades. Fred, may he rest in peace, was a cautious climber with over 1,000 first ascents and never considered climbing such an objectively dangerous.
As a third edition it seems the author has had time to refine his message without losing track of his original intention of helping independent climbers choose the right finally the long awaited third edition. Our guide staff has the expertise to take you up mt. At 93, legendary climber fred beckey still plotting routes. Fred beckey, a prolific north american climber, author, and mountaineer, passed away monday at 94. Beckeys book, originally published in 1984, was copy written in 1982 and was published by bonanza books.
The combination of high altitude, variety of routes, and unpredictable northwest weather make climbing mt. The longawaited revision of fred beckeys comprehensive and indispensable climbing guide is here at last. Of note is the striking photographs and the excellent narrative regarding the history, geology, and climbing interests among the great ranges of north america. Name any route on rainier, and he can describe its rewards and specific challenges hes summited rainier more than 170 times during all seasons and under intense conditions. One of author mike gauthiers primary duties as lead climbing ranger for mount rainier national park was advising climbing parties about what to expect on the mountain. He is wellversed in mountaineering lore, and wed seen fred beckey speak at. Volume one of fred beckeys classic guidebooks to climbing in the cascades. Consider our 8 day, 9 day, and 10 day programs this threeday instructional course and summit climb will teach you some of the basics of glacier mountaineering, including selfarrest training and glacier travel techniques, as we lead you up to a summit attempt of mt. He also penned books about climbing mount mckinley and mount rainier. This guidebook, written for experienced mountain climbers, offers detailed information on nearly fifty routes to the summit of washington states mount rainier, a.
The book includes a history of the creation of camp long by william g. From the air, beckey went on to say that rainier has been likened to an arctic palace floating on a sea of green trees. The year of 1954 saw the everambitious beckey mounting separate expeditions to scale three alaskan peaks. He learned climbing techniques as a boy scout and in a mountaineers course. Beckey s book, originally published in 1984, was copy written in 1982 and was published by bonanza books. Many of the photos are clearly the same ones found in beckeys cag. An epic climb of mount rainier via the willis wall the. Rainier is the best training grounds in the lower 48 states for glacier climbing and expedition skills. Well organized and easy to follow, the book has 2 sections. Mount rainier 3 day muir climb alpine ascents international. Beckey, and his livetoclimb lifestyle, was celebrated earlier this year in the. Rainier climbing guides north cascades mountain guides. Also covered are the latest in permit and park regulations, preparation, the high camps and bivvy sites, summit day, and winter climbing.
Just enough details to get you fired up to look for something less hardbound and packed with glossy images of historic climbing. A formidable alpine climber, fred beckey 19232017 is unofficially recognized as the alltime worldrecord holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. Of note is the striking photographs and the excellent narrative regarding the history, geology, and. Hes notched more first ascents than any other american mountaineer, wrote the definitive guidebooks to a major north american mountain range, and at age 93, fred beckey is still plotting routes. Fred beckeys 100 favorite north american climbs by fred. With a summit elevation of 14,411 ft 4,392 m, it is the highest mountain in the u. Darrington and index rock climbing guide mountaineers books, 1976. In addition to summiting the nearby mount rainier five times, beckey would also. Climber fred beckey still reaches new heights concord monitor.
At the recent beckey event, fans from young climbers to exgirlfriends even the adult daughter of an exgirlfriend who flew in. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date, unless otherwise specified, and can be paid by check, wire transfer, ach or. In 2003 beckey finished his most expansive project to date, the 563page range of glaciers. The first volume in the classic cascade alpine guide series, columbia river to stevens pass features expert information on more than 300 climbing and high routes, including mount rainier.
Rainier, the most extensively glaciated mountain in the continental united states, rises 14,410 above the nearby pacific and offers limitless mountaineering possibilities. Isbn 9780966979503 9780966979503 softcover, alpenbooks, 1999 fred beckeys 100 favorite north american climbs. The essentials guide beckey, fred, van steen, alex on. The beckey route is quite possibly the most famous alpine rock climb in all of the north cascades. Discover delightful childrens books with prime book box, a subscription that. Beckeys most famous climbing feat was his triple ascent of alaskas mounts mckinley, deborah, and hunter in 1954. Isbn 9780966979503 9780966979503 softcover, alpenbooks, 1999 fred beckey s 100 favorite north american climbs. Rainier summit climbs and courses with international. Long, a superior court judge, who seized the opportunity to turn an unused 68acre tract of swampy forest land into a wilderness camp for youth, and a biography of clark schurman, a scoutmaster and chief climbing guide at mount rainier, who envisioned and then built his. In addition to summiting the nearby mount rainier five times, beckey would also go as far as europe and south china to get his kicks.
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